212 useful answers · Page 2 of 9
Sew and mend, make paper and vinyl projects, dye fabric, and learn knitting, crochet, and embroidery.
Search this topicUnplug the machine, then remove the needle, bobbin, and stitch plate as directed in the manual. Lift out the bobbin case and remove lint with the accessory brush; a suitable small vacuum attachment can help. Reassemble carefully, install a sound needle, rethread, and test on scrap fabric before continuing your project.
With the yarn in front, insert the right needle into the front of the next stitch on the left needle from right to left. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle, draw a new loop back through the stitch, and slide the old loop off the left needle. Keep the new loop on the right needle.
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Work one row of knit stitches, turn, then work one row of purl stitches. Repeat those two rows. The front develops smooth V-shaped stitches, while the reverse has purl bumps. This instruction is for working flat; stockinette worked continuously in the round uses knit stitches every round instead.
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The main difference is which hand controls the working yarn: the right hand in English knitting and the left in Continental. Both can make the same fabric. Try a small practice swatch with each and choose a comfortable method; the pattern normally specifies stitches, not a required yarn-holding style.
Alternate two knit stitches with two purl stitches across the row, following your pattern's edge instructions. Move the yarn between the needles when changing stitch types. On subsequent rows, knit the stitches that look like Vs and purl the bumps facing you, so the vertical columns continue rather than changing places.
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Check how you move the yarn. Bring it between the needle tips to the front for a purl and to the back for a knit. Taking it over the needle can accidentally create a yarn-over loop. Count the stitches after a practice row to see whether that extra movement is increasing your total.
Insert the right needle through the fronts of the next two stitches on the left needle together, as though they were one stitch. Knit them in one motion and slide both old loops off. You now have one stitch in place of two; this standard decrease leans to the right.
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Bring the yarn to the front, then insert the right needle into the next two stitches together as if purling one stitch. Wrap the yarn, draw a single new loop through both, and slide the two old loops off. Your stitch count decreases by one; the abbreviation is p2tog.
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For a knit stitch, put the left needle into the loop directly below the first stitch on the right needle, then transfer that recovered loop left while gently withdrawing the working yarn. Repeat one stitch at a time until you reach the mistake. Keep each loop supported before releasing the stitch above it.
Lift the horizontal strand between the last worked stitch and the next stitch onto the left needle from front to back. Knit through the back of that lifted strand to twist it closed. This creates one extra stitch without intentionally leaving a hole. Use a different method if your pattern specifies M1R.
With the knit side facing you, place a crochet hook through the loose loop. Catch the horizontal strand immediately above it and pull that strand through the loop. Repeat upward, one strand per missing row, then return the recovered loop to the needle. Keep the ladder strands in their original order.
Yes. Work across the stitches, then turn the work and exchange which needle tip is in each hand, just as you would with straight needles. Do not join the two ends of the row. The cable holds the fabric between the tips and can be useful for a wide or heavy project.
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Their tips at both ends let you work around a small tube by distributing stitches over several needles and knitting with another. Unlike straight needles, they have no end stop, so keep unused stitches centered. They are commonly used for knitting in the round when a small circumference is awkward on a circular needle.
Make a sample in the stitch pattern specified, large enough to measure away from its edges. Lay it flat without stretching and count stitches across the stated width, then rows over the stated height. Include partial stitches when measuring. Compare both numbers with the pattern before committing to a fitted project.
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If you have more stitches in the measured width than the pattern specifies, your stitches are too small; try larger needles. If you have fewer, try smaller needles. Make and measure another swatch after changing sizes. Do not assume the needle size printed in the pattern will suit everyone's tension.
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Yes, when the finished item will be washed. Treat the swatch according to the yarn's care instructions and let it dry fully before measuring again. Some fabrics grow or relax when wet. Record the before-and-after measurements so you can judge the size the finished garment will actually maintain.
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In a pattern, yarn weight usually means the thickness category, such as medium or bulky. The grams or ounces on a ball tell you how much material the package contains. These are different measurements. Check both the thickness category and the length supplied when deciding whether a yarn suits your project.
Divide the pattern's required yarn length by the length in one ball of your chosen yarn, using the same units, then round up to a whole ball. For example, 650 yards divided by 200 yards means four balls. Check gauge first when substituting, because a different yarn can change the amount needed.
The same color name can look slightly different between dye batches. If a project needs several balls, compare the dye-lot numbers and buy enough matching yarn together when possible. Keep a label until the project is finished so you have a useful reference if you need more or must identify the fiber later.
Give the recipient the yarn label or a clear copy of its washing and drying instructions. Include the fiber content and any special care needed for trims or other yarns used in the piece. This is more useful than simply calling it handmade, because different fibers tolerate water, heat, and agitation differently.
It is a starting point, not a guarantee. Make a swatch and check whether you can match the pattern's gauge while producing fabric with suitable softness and drape. Fibers and construction can behave differently despite sharing a thickness category. Also compare yardage per ball before deciding how many to buy.
First check that the yarn's care instructions allow washing. Wash accordingly, then roll the piece in a clean towel and press gently to remove water. Lay it flat, arrange it to the intended measurements, and pin if needed. Let it air-dry completely without hanging it or stretching it aggressively.
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Lay it flat on a clean towel or suitable blocking surface, then mist it with room-temperature water. Gently arrange the edges and dimensions, using rust-resistant pins if needed, and leave it to dry completely. Check the yarn's care instructions first; blocking should refine the shape rather than force a badly sized piece to fit.
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Avoid applying a hot iron to acrylic. It is heat-sensitive, and heat can permanently alter or damage the fabric. Lion Brand recommends against steam-blocking acrylic; follow the yarn label and choose a permitted wet or spray method instead. Test any unfamiliar finishing method on a spare swatch before treating the project.
Source checks for these answers: September 21, 2026. Product instructions and local requirements can vary.